The EU has defined microplastics as synthetic polymer particles (SPMs), < 5mm. Microplastics have become a significant environmental concern, particularly in the cosmetics and personal care industry. These tiny plastic particles are used in various beauty and skincare products for their exfoliating properties, texture enhancement, and prolonged shelf life. However, their persistence in the environment and potential harm to marine ecosystems have led to increasing regulatory scrutiny worldwide.
Overview
There are two types of microplastics, primary, those intentionally added and secondary, those degraded fragments from packaging and textiles.
Microplastics are intentionally added to cosmetic formulations for a variety of reasons, including:
- Abrasion: Microbeads are used to exfoliate, polish and clean in facial scrubs, body washes and toothpaste.
- Emulsifying, to improve the texture, spreadability, and viscosity of creams, lotions, and makeup products.
- Prolonged Wear and Water Resistance, to help enhance the durability of cosmetics such as lipsticks, mascaras, and sunscreens, making them more water-resistant and long-lasting.
- Film Formation, to create a smooth, even layer on the skin or hair, often used in hair sprays, foundations, and nail polishes.
While microplastics have been valued for their functional benefits in cosmetics, their environmental impact has raised significant concerns.
Environmental Impact of Microplastics
Microplastics in cosmetics contribute to the growing issue of plastic pollution, primarily through wastewater discharge. Since these particles are too small to be effectively filtered by conventional wastewater treatment plants, they often end up in rivers, lakes, and oceans, causing multiple environmental hazards.
- Marine Pollution and Bioaccumulation – Microplastics are ingested by small aquatic organisms, such as plankton, shellfish, and fish. These particles can accumulate in the food chain, eventually impacting larger marine animals and even humans who consume seafood.
- Toxic Chemical Absorption – Microplastics can act as carriers for harmful pollutants such as pesticides, heavy metals, and endocrine-disrupting chemicals, leading to ingestion by marine life.
- Disruption of Ecosystems – Microplastics can settle in different environments, altering habitats and affecting the natural behaviour of organisms, leading to biodiversity loss and ecosystem imbalance.
- Persistence and Non-Biodegradability – Unlike organic materials, microplastics do not readily degrade. They can persist in the environment for decades, continuously polluting soil, water bodies, and even the air.
Microplastics have potential health links to inflammation and endocrine disruption.
Due to these growing concerns, governments and regulatory agencies have introduced measures to limit the use of microplastics in cosmetics.
Regulations on Microplastics in Cosmetics
Several countries and regions have taken action to regulate or ban microplastics in cosmetic products, particularly microbeads used for exfoliation. Some of the most notable regulations include:
- European Union (EU)
Regulation EU 2023/2055 amending Annex XVII to Regulation 1907/2006 of REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals) banning intentionally added microplastics with mandatory supply chain disclosure during the transition period.
2. United States
Microbead-Free Waters Act of 2015 banned the manufacture and sale of rinse-off cosmetic products containing plastic microbeads.
California AB885 limited microbeads to <1pmm in cosmetics.
3. United Kingdom
Environmental Protection (Microbead Regulations 2017/2018 focusing on rinse-off personal care products.
- Canada
Canada banned microbeads in the manufacture of toiletries and their import and sales, effective from 2018.
- Other Countries – Nations such as Australia, South Korea, Taiwan, and New Zealand have also imposed restrictions or voluntary phase-outs of microplastics in cosmetics.
The REACH Restriction – Regulation EU 2023/2055
Microbeads have already been banned in rinse-off products since 2020. Despite this ban, many cosmetic formulations still contain other types of synthetic polymers that can break down into microplastics, leading to ongoing concerns about their environmental impact.
The aim of the REACH restriction is to reduce environmental and human health risk by:
- reducing their use under REACH,
- prohibiting the sale of SPM and products to which SPMs have been added intentionally at > 0.01%
- prohibiting the sale of products those that release microplastics when used.
The restriction will enter into force on a phased timetable
- Rinse-off cosmetics – October 2027
- Encapsulated fragrances and leave-on cosmetics – October 2029
- Lip, nail and make-up products – October 2035.
Intentionally added microplastics which falls within the definition of Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 will not be allowed after the transition period. During the transition period, annual data on SPM use, release and compliance from 2026/27 must be reported. After the transition period, companies putting a product that contains microplastic must provide instruction for use/disposal and disclose microplastic content to ensure it falls within the exemption criteria of Regulation 2013/2055.
Compliance Strategies
To comply with regulations and reduce environmental harm, cosmetic companies could voluntarily phase out SPMs and turn to sustainable alternatives to microplastics, including:
- Natural Exfoliants – such as walnut shells, apricot kernels, sugar, salt, and jojoba beads offer biodegradable alternatives to plastic microbeads.
- Biodegradable Polymers – Bio-based polymers derived from algae, starch, and cellulose, which can break down naturally without polluting the environment. Proof of biodegradability must be provided (eg OECD 301, ISO 14822) with acceptability criteria of ≥60% mineralisation in 28-60 days.
- Silica and Clay-Based Ingredients – These provide similar textural and thickening properties to microplastics while being more environmentally friendly.
- Encapsulation Technologies – Biodegradable encapsulation systems are under development for active ingredients to replace plastic-based delivery mechanisms.
Conclusion
The use of microplastics in cosmetics has provided various functional benefits but comes at a significant environmental cost. As research highlights the persistent and harmful effects of microplastics on marine ecosystems and human health, regulatory bodies worldwide have taken action to ban or restrict their use. The cosmetic industry is now shifting towards sustainable, biodegradable alternatives, paving the way for a greener future. However, continued efforts in innovation, regulation, and consumer education will be crucial in fully addressing the microplastic crisis and protecting our planet for future generations.
Published May 8, 2025
This article was generated with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence.